Few fabrics are as closely tied to South African weddings as shweshwe. The crisp printed cotton, often in indigo with fine geometric patterns, appears at lobola negotiations, umembeso, traditional weddings and as the uniform of the makoti, the new bride. Here is a guide to shweshwe and how to wear it at a wedding.
What is shweshwe?
Shweshwe is a printed cotton fabric, traditionally dyed in indigo, with patterns such as small circles, stripes and diamonds. It came to southern Africa in the nineteenth century through European traders and missionaries and was adopted and transformed by local communities, particularly among Sotho and Xhosa women. It is now made in brown, red, pink, green and many other colours.
The best-known producer is Da Gama Textiles in the Eastern Cape, whose Three Cats brand is regarded by many as the original. New fabric has a stiff feel and a distinctive smell that softens after washing.
Shweshwe and the makoti
In many South African families, a new bride, the makoti, wears shweshwe outfits at family gatherings, often with an apron, shawl and headscarf. The outfits signal her new status and her respect for her husband’s family. At umembeso and other ceremonies, women of both families may wear matching shweshwe.
Shweshwe wedding dress ideas
- The bride: a fitted shweshwe gown with a flared skirt for the traditional wedding, sometimes combined with lace or beadwork.
- The groom: a shweshwe shirt or waistcoat, or a suit with shweshwe lapels and pocket square.
- Bridesmaids: matching shweshwe in one colour, cut in different styles to suit each figure.
- Family: a chosen pattern for each side, so the photographs clearly show both families.
Buying and caring for shweshwe
Look for the brand stamp on the reverse of the fabric to check you are buying the genuine article. Pre-wash the fabric before sewing, as it can shrink, and iron it while slightly damp for a crisp finish. Order fabric and book a tailor early, because wedding season keeps dressmakers busy.
Shweshwe pairs naturally with the ceremonies that precede a South African wedding, from lobola to umembeso. Worn well, it says something no white gown can: that the bride carries her heritage with her.
Shweshwe: common questions
What is shweshwe fabric?
Shweshwe is a printed, dyed cotton fabric known for its fine geometric patterns, widely worn in South Africa. Read about shweshwe.
Why is shweshwe popular for weddings?
Shweshwe is affordable, durable and holds structured shapes well, so brides, grooms and families use it for traditional ceremonies.
How do you care for shweshwe?
New shweshwe is stiff from starch, so pre-wash it before sewing, as it softens and can shrink slightly.
