A Ghanaian bride rarely gets married in one dress. She may wear kente for the knocking, a beaded kaba and slit for the engagement, a white gown for church and something shorter and easier to dance in for the reception. Each look has its own job, and each one is planned with a seamstress or designer months before the day.

Here are the main African wedding dress styles brides in Ghana and across West Africa choose, and what to think about before you commit to one.

The kente engagement look

Kente is the cloth most associated with Ghanaian weddings. It is woven in narrow strips on looms, then sewn together, and the two great weaving traditions are the Asante kente of Bonwire near Kumasi and the Ewe kente of Agbozume and Kpetoe in the Volta Region. Each pattern has a name, and colours carry meaning: gold for wealth and status, green for growth, blue for peace and love.

For the engagement, many brides wear kente sewn into a kaba and slit, the fitted blouse and long skirt that form the classic Ghanaian woman’s outfit. The groom wears matching kente, either wrapped toga-style over one shoulder or sewn into a shirt or smock. Choosing the same cloth for both is one of the clearest signals of a couple on their wedding day.

Modern designers have taken kente much further. Brides now wear kente corsets with tulle skirts, kente mermaid gowns, and white gowns with kente panels, sleeves or trains. These pieces mix the cloth’s meaning with the shape of a Western gown.

Lace kaba and slit

Lace is the other great fabric of West African weddings. Ghanaian and Nigerian brides wear lace in heavy cord and beaded versions, often embellished by hand with stones, sequins and crystals. A lace kaba and slit with a long train is a popular engagement look, especially for brides who want something lighter than kente or who plan to change into kente later in the day.

Lace is easy to match with the groom’s outfit, since tailors can make his shirt or agbada from the same fabric. It also photographs well, which matters on a day that will be filmed and shared online. Beaded lace is heavy, though, so brides who plan to dance should test the weight at fittings.

The white wedding gown

For the church wedding, most brides choose a white or ivory gown. The main silhouettes are the ball gown, with a fitted bodice and full skirt; the A-line, which flares gently from the waist; the mermaid or trumpet, fitted through the hips and flaring at the knee; and the sheath, a slim column that suits smaller weddings and hot weather.

Many Ghanaian brides now rent their gowns from bridal shops in Accra, Kumasi and other cities, while others buy abroad or have a gown made locally. Renting saves money but limits alterations; buying or sewing allows a perfect fit but costs more. Whatever the route, brides should allow time for at least two fittings.

Simple wedding dresses

Not every bride wants a heavy gown. Simple wedding dresses suit court and registry weddings, small church ceremonies and second marriages. A plain satin slip dress, a knee-length lace dress or a tailored white jumpsuit can look elegant and costs far less than a ball gown.

Simple dresses also work for the reception change. Many brides switch from the church gown into a shorter, lighter dress so they can dance, often in a colour that matches the wedding theme.

Choosing the right style for you

Start with the events. List every ceremony you are having and decide how many outfits you need. Two looks, one traditional and one white, is common; four or five is not unusual for a large wedding.

Think about the weather. Outdoor engagements in the dry season can be hot, and heavy lace or beaded kente under the sun is tiring. Breathable fabrics, a shaded venue and a lighter second outfit help.

Work with a designer early. Good seamstresses and bridal designers book up, especially around December and Easter, which are peak wedding seasons in Ghana. Bring pictures, your fabric and your measurements, and agree on fitting dates in writing.

Finally, choose something you can move in. You will sit, stand, kneel at the altar, dance in your entrance and hug a long line of relatives. The best wedding dress is the one you forget you are wearing by the end of the night.